Khullu OR Yark Wool
For decades, cashmere has been synonymous with luxury. Its soft texture and insulating properties have made it a popular choice for premium apparel.
However, as sustainability and environmental impact become central to consumer choices, khullu—the soft undercoat of the Tibetan yak—has gained recognition as a superior alternative.
Not only does khullu offer comparable softness and warmth, but it also excels in durability, sustainability, and eco-friendliness.
This detailed exploration compares khullu and cashmere across several dimensions, shedding light on why khullu is an excellent substitute and a step toward responsible luxury.
What is Khullu, and How Does it Compare to Cashmere?
Khullu is the fine undercoat of the yak, a resilient animal native to the Himalayas, Tibetan Plateau, and Central Asian steppes.
Each spring, yaks naturally shed their soft undercoat, which herders collect for processing into yarn and textiles.
This material is exceptionally soft, warm, and breathable, ideal for high-performance and luxury garments.
Yaks are integral to the ecosystems they inhabit and provide vital resources such as milk, meat, and wool to local communities. Their adaptability to extreme conditions ensures their fibre is naturally optimised for warmth and comfort.
The Origin of Yak Wool
Yaks are large bovine animals native to the Himalayas, Tibetan Plateau, and Central Asia.
These resilient creatures thrive at altitudes ranging from 10,000 to 15,000 feet above sea level, enduring some of the harshest climates on Earth.
To survive extreme temperatures, yaks have developed a dual-layered coat of coarse guard hairs and a soft insulating undercoat—khullu.
The Origin of Cashmere
Cashmere goats are primarily found in regions such as Inner Mongolia, Ladakh, and parts of China.
These goats produce a slightly fine undercoat annually, which is painstakingly collected to create the luxurious fibre we know as cashmere.
However, each goat’s limited yield and the growing demand for cashmere have led to significant environmental challenges, including overgrazing and desertification.
Khullu vs. Cashmere: A Detailed Comparison
Softness and Comfort
The softness of wool is determined by its fibre diameter.
- Khullu: With an average fibre diameter of 17.5 microns, khullu falls within the range of luxurious softness, comparable to Grade B cashmere.
- Cashmere: The finest cashmere fibres (Grade A) measure around 14 microns, while lower grades can range up to 30 microns.
Although cashmere is marginally softer in its highest grade, khullu offers comparable comfort and is less prone to pilling over time.
Warmth and Insulation
Yaks endure temperatures as low as -40°F and as high as 90°F, making their wool exceptionally thermoregulating.
- Khullu: Known to be 30% warmer than sheep’s wool, khullu provides superior insulation without added bulk. Its natural crimp structure traps air, creating pockets of warmth.
- Cashmere: While cashmere is warm, it does not offer the same level of thermal performance as khullu, especially in extreme conditions.
Durability
The strength of fibre determines its longevity.
- Khullu: Yak wool’s crimped structure allows it to stretch up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry without losing shape. It can endure over 30,000 bends before breaking, making it highly durable and machine washable.
- Cashmere: Cashmere is delicate and prone to shrinking or losing shape when exposed to moisture, requiring careful handling and often dry cleaning.
Breathability
Breathability is crucial for comfort in both warm and cold conditions.
- Khullu: The natural crimp in khullu fibres enhances airflow and moisture-wicking, making it nearly twice as breathable as cashmere. This property helps regulate body temperature effectively in all seasons.
- Cashmere: While cashmere offers good breathability, it does not match the adaptability of khullu in extreme weather.
Sustainability
Sustainability is a growing concern in the textile industry, and khullu outshines cashmere.
- Khullu: Yaks graze gently, consuming only the tops of plants and leaving root systems intact. This promotes grassland regeneration and reduces desertification. Additionally, yaks yield a higher quantity of fiber annually compared to cashmere goats.
- Cashmere: The rising demand for cashmere has led to overgrazing in regions like Mongolia, where 90% of grasslands are at risk of desertification. Each cashmere goat produces only 250 grams of wool annually, requiring multiple goats to create a single garment, exacerbating ecological strain.
Odor Resistance
Both fibres are naturally antimicrobial, reducing bacterial growth and odours.
- Khullu: Its enhanced moisture-wicking properties make khullu slightly more odour-resistant than cashmere, ideal for activewear or extended wear.
- Cashmere: Cashmere also resists odours well but lacks the advanced moisture management found in khullu.
Some Quick Facts About Yaks
Most cashmere-producing goats are found in Inner Mongolia, accounting for approximately one-third of the global cashmere supply.
Interestingly, there is no single “cashmere goat” breed. Instead, around 20 different goat breeds worldwide contribute to cashmere production. Among these, four primary breeds dominate the industry:
- Pashmina Goat
- Australian Cashmere Goat
- Inner Mongolia Cashmere Goat
- Chinese Cashmere Goat
To ensure uniformity across the diverse range of cashmere fibres, the material is graded based on quality and fineness:
- Grade C Cashmere: The lowest quality, with fibres measuring about 30 microns (µm) in diameter.
- Grade B Cashmere: An intermediate grade, with fibers averaging 18–19µm in diameter.
- Grade A Cashmere: The finest and most expensive grade, with fibres as fine as 14µm in diameter.
For context, human hair averages 75µm in diameter, making even Grade C cashmere significantly finer and softer by comparison.
The Timeless Appeal of Cashmere
Cashmere has long been a symbol of luxury and elegance, cherished for its unparalleled softness and lightweight feel.
Known as one of the softest natural fibers in the world, cashmere offers a plush, delicate texture that feels indulgent against the skin.
Its ability to provide exceptional warmth despite being incredibly lightweight has made it a staple in high-end winter fashion, from scarves and sweaters to coats and suits.
Additionally, cashmere garments are often seen as timeless investments. With proper care, high-quality cashmere can last for decades, serving as a versatile and durable wardrobe essential.
The natural sheen and cashmere drape make it an ideal choice for creating sophisticated, stylish pieces that never go out of fashion. Despite its environmental concerns, cashmere retains its reputation as a luxurious fiber that exudes refinement and comfort.
Which is The Best Cashmere Alternative?
The fashion industry faces criticism for its environmental impact, with synthetic fibers being major polluters. Similarly, cashmere production contributes to overgrazing due to over-herding of goats.
However, sustainable options exist, such as Tencel in plant-based materials and khullu in wool.
Khullu, derived from yaks, offers a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to cashmere, balancing luxury with environmental responsibility.
Organizations actively support herders in maintaining healthy yak populations, ensuring ethical and sustainable production practices.
Always consider the origin, production, and ecological impact of the materials in your wardrobe.
Wrapping Up!
Cashmere has long been a symbol of luxury, but its sustainability challenges call for a more conscious approach to its production and use.
At Om Cashmere, we are committed to redefining the cashmere experience by focusing on ethical practices, environmental responsibility, and unparalleled craftsmanship.
Our cashmere is sourced from carefully managed herds, ensuring minimal ecological impact while supporting the livelihoods of local herders.
By prioritizing quality over quantity, we deliver timeless pieces designed to last, blending the softness and warmth of cashmere with a dedication to sustainability.
Choose Om Cashmere—wear the difference.
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